the golden route in japan - From Tokyo to Kyoto to Osaka and everywhere in-between

Planning


When we told friends we were going to Japan this Spring, many asked us why? Like it would have never been on their radar. We just told them, "For fun!" When we traveled to Italy in 2019, it was mostly for me because I have always felt deep roots in my Italian ancestry. I grew up with and was very close to my Italian Grandpa, who came to the United States on a boat in 1933 and lived almost 100 years old. We had family in Italy we had never met and desperately wanted to meet and connect with, so Italy had always been something I felt a strong pull towards. Japan was my husband's "strong pull towards" a place. No, he isn't Japanese at all. Still, he grew up around Japanese stories from his Father, who lived there for a couple years when he was a young adult, his Uncles, who also lived there, and more Japanese food and culture than any kid living in the sticks should be exposed to. His family also hosted many Japanese and other Asian foreign exchange students in their home through the years.


When you plan to go to Japan, do as much research as possible and then do more after that! Though the country isn't huge, there are many different experiences, climates, and unique places to explore. The important thing is this: There is A LOT of Japanese content from influencers. Some of it is helpful advice, and some just flat-out scared me and made me more nervous than I needed to be before I went. Everyone scared me about the subway stations and trains. I thought I would get lost in a station and never find how to escape to the outside world again. You will also find many videos of "things you should never do" in Japan, or the locals will shame you and take you away to rule jail or something. Those are all click-bait junk. Is there a lot of order and unwritten rules in Japan? Yes, and they honestly make everyone's lives easier. If you follow what others are doing, you will be fine. If a Japanese person is super annoyed by something you did "wrong," you'll never know because everyone we interacted with was over-the-top polite. The language barrier is not that scary, either. We live in a time when our smartphones allow us to instantly translate any sign and get you on the correct train easily. Many signs are also in English below the Japanese writing, especially in cities. You basically need to say "konnichiwa," "sumimasen," and a lot of "arigato gozaimasu," and you can survive fine.

Aerial night view of the famous Shibuya Crossing intersection in Tokyo with crowds and neon lights.

Tokyo

Larrin and I weren't exactly sure how much we'd like Tokyo since we aren't the typical city-loving folk. We were worried Tokyo would be too crowded, overwhelming, and overstimulating. I fell in love with Tokyo and would return here in a heartbeat. The trains can and will be cramped at times. Still, people are always going in and out of them, and you can make your way to a seat usually within 5 minutes. You typically aren't on them longer than 30 minutes anyway. But Tokyo did not feel too crowded to us. It is such a huge city that people are spread out over the area. There are busy sections and busy times in very specific areas, but there's a lot of breathing room for the most part. Maybe don't go to Shibuya on a Saturday evening. Or DO if you want to take a video of crossing the famous street when there is a hoard of people! Tokyo had huge, beautiful parks that I had not expected. A lot of shrines and temples are in these parks and must-sees. The city was incredible, with the food markets, character stores, arcades, and restaurants. 

Ginza


We stayed in the Ginza area of Tokyo when we first arrived. It is a perfect central area but off most tourists' radar. It is where you go for Michelin Star dining and designer upscale shops. Fortunately, it isn't as expensive to actually stay there compared to the more popular Shibuya and Shinjuku areas. It was very quiet, clean, and had a chill vibe. It is close to Tokyo station, a whole city down there, and within walking distance of Tsukiji market. It will also be the closest to TeamLab Planets. I'd stay in this area again.

Wide empty boulevard in Ginza Tokyo lined with modern buildings and green trees.
Man in brown Steel City hoodie and glasses writing on wooden wall in dimly lit space.
Bowl of creamy tonkotsu ramen with green onions and red toppings in black ceramic bowl.
Tsukiji Nippon Fish Port Market exterior sign on a building in Tokyo, Japan.
Busy street outside Tsukiji Market in Tokyo with Japanese signs, shops, and passing vehicles.
Display case of premium Japanese wagyu beef cuts with price tags at a Tokyo market stall.
Man in glasses eating fresh tamagoyaki egg omelet at a Tsukiji Market food stall in Tokyo.
Fresh sea urchin uni sushi served on shiso leaves atop sea urchin shells at a Japanese market.
Hand holding a cold matcha green tea drink with a straw outside a Tsukiji Market shop.
Woman in yellow shirt drinking matcha green tea on a busy street near Tsukiji Market, Tokyo.
Asakusa


Asakusa might have been one of my favorite areas of Toyko. If you go early to Senso-ji, it will be worth it. Luckily, if you come from the US, you will have no problem going places early for a while because your body will be up at 4am, ready to start the day. You'll be lucky when your body lets you sleep until 6am instead. In Asakusa, we went to a pig cafe, went to the kitchen district for knives, went to the underground street where we ate the best yakisoba and gyozas ever, and ate melon pan with ice cream at a small market.

Empty covered shopping arcade in Japan with glass roof and colorful shop signs.
Quiet narrow alley with traditional Japanese shop fronts and signage in Tokyo.
Woman smiling in front of iconic red Kaminarimon lantern gate at Senso-ji temple.
Man smiling in colorful shirt at Senso-ji Temple Kaminarimon Gate with iconic red lantern in Tokyo.
Iconic Kaminarimon Gate with large red lantern at Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, Tokyo, Japan.
Quiet narrow street lined with traditional Japanese shops and lanterns in Asakusa, Tokyo.
Colorful Japanese street art mural on a storefront shutter depicting geisha and floral motifs.
Rows of white paper lanterns with Japanese calligraphy hanging at Senso-ji Temple, Tokyo.
Red torii gate entrance to Denpo-in Street in Asakusa with pedestrians walking beneath it.
Tourists gathered at the grand red Hozomon Gate of Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, Tokyo.
Ueno


I really fell in love with this neighborhood because of Ueno Park. It was absolutely beautiful. It had a mini Fushimi-Inari torii gate area, stunning gardens, lakes, shrines, pagodas, and tons of breathing space. They also had a zoo in the middle, which we didn't go to. There was plenty of beauty and food in Ueno! 

Visitors gathered at a traditional Japanese red wooden temple surrounded by lush green trees.
Rows of wooden ema prayer plaques hanging at a Japanese Shinto shrine.
Twisted circular pine tree branch framing a crowd at a Japanese garden shrine.
Woman smiling beside vibrant orange torii gates at a Japanese Shinto shrine pathway.
Stone pathway leading through rows of orange torii gates at a Japanese Shinto shrine.
Rows of white omikuji fortune paper strips tied to a bamboo rack at a Japanese shrine.
Smiling man in colorful shirt standing in a Japanese shrine garden with red banners.
A tourist walks through a tunnel of vibrant red torii gates at a Japanese Shinto shrine.
Rows of ancient stone lanterns line a serene pathway at a traditional Japanese temple.
A stunning multi-tiered Japanese pagoda rises against a cloudy sky surrounded by trees.
Akihabara


And then there was Akihabara. Wow! This place was mind-blowing to me. Imagine Pittsburgh was a city dedicated to cartoon character merch, arcades, and video game shops. That's how massive and impressive this neighborhood was. I must stress that when I use the word "neighborhood," it's unlike anything we use here in Pittsburgh. These "neighborhoods" are like the size of a city. They are massive and have a completely different vibe, as well as shops and buildings from the next area over. I don't care about old video games or anime (I'm a Studio Ghibli girly, though). However, I still liked checking out Akihabara and had a great time. 

A smiling woman stands with arms outstretched on a busy urban street in Tokyo, Japan.
A smiling man in a colorful patterned shirt stands confidently on a Tokyo city street.
A vibrant red sign advertises Yokohama Iekei Ramen Ichikakuya restaurant in Japan.
A yellow commuter train crosses an elevated rail bridge between urban buildings in Tokyo.
Busy pedestrian crossing in Akihabara, Tokyo, with colorful storefronts and an elevated railway bridge overhead.
Man in floral shirt playing arcade game at a retro gaming arcade cabinet.
Person in anime-print shirt playing a colorful arcade game at a Japanese gaming center.
Yellow train passing over a bridge above a busy Akihabara street lined with neon signs in Tokyo.
Shinjuku


So there was one hiccup on our trip to Japan, and that was I got what I think was food poisoning from our plane going to Toyko; I felt awful the first 2 days after arriving, and I made Larrin go do our food tour in Shinjuku we had scheduled the second evening we were there. I was so sad to miss it, but Larrin was nice enough to return to this area one evening with me to check out the nightlife, which made me feel much better. This is the red-light district and party scene. We don't drink, so bar-hopping and staying up all night isn't something we would ever do. Shinjuku has really cool izakaya's and alleyways, which is a photographer's dream. I'm sure I annoyed Larrin that night with wanting to stop and take so many photos in the middle of very packed alleys, but I had to. I liked this area, but we didn't partake in the typical activities people go there to do.

Glowing red neon Japanese restaurant sign with lanterns illuminated at night.
Giant 3D digital billboard of a cat rolling on its back above a crowded Tokyo street at night.
Vibrant neon-lit Shinjuku intersection at night with colorful billboards and empty streets.
Busy narrow alley in Tokyo's Golden Gai at night with neon signs and crowds.
Narrow Japanese alleyway at night lined with glowing signs and cherry blossoms.
Red and white Japanese paper lanterns hanging outside a Tokyo izakaya at night.
Glowing paper lanterns illuminating a crowded narrow alley in Tokyo at night.
Crowds walking under neon entrance gate of Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku Tokyo.
Woman smiling in a narrow Tokyo alley lit by warm glowing paper lanterns.
Woman posing in a vibrant narrow Tokyo alley with lanterns and neon signs.
Mount Takao and Teamlab Planets


During our last full day in Tokyo, we ditched the city. We kept our schedule very flexible throughout the trip. We had many things to do, but very few were set in stone. We weren't sure if we would be able to go anywhere in the mountains, but we were able to go twice! Mount Takao was the first. It is located about an hour outside of Tokyo. It took us about 2 hours to get there because we accidentally got on the "local train," which stopped at every damn station, and we were too scared to abandon ship at a more rural station. There were barely any tourists in the mountain areas we visited. Mostly, we shared the mountain with retired Japanese locals. If you go on a clear day like we did, a real treat will be waiting for you. We got to see Mount Fuji, and it was like staring at a painting. Stunning! Mount Takao was one of the best things we did in Japan. I recommend putting this on anyone's itinerary who is in moderately fair shape. It's also fun to ride the ski lift down after the hike up.


That evening, we went to TeamLab Planets, which was all the rage. I wish I could tell you this is a MUST do, but I'm unsure. I don't regret going to it, and I had fun, but the crowds make the experience less than ideal. This place is basically always busy, too. Unless you are going to Japan in the middle of winter, this interactive museum is like a Disney park where it doesn't matter when you go; there will always be a substantial crowd.

Row of small moss-covered Jizo stone statues wearing red bibs at a Japanese Buddhist temple.
Man in a brown hoodie walking along a lush forest trail beside a stream in Japan.
Serene wooden Japanese shrine nestled in a lush green forest with a stone pathway and torii gate.
Smiling man in a Steel City hoodie standing on a rocky forest path covered in tree roots in Japan.
Close-up of a person navigating a rugged forest trail covered in twisted tree roots in Japan.
Snow-capped Mount Fuji rises above lush green mountain ridges under a clear blue sky in Japan.
Smiling man in a Steel City hoodie standing before a small Japanese shrine in a forest.
Couple smiling for a selfie with Mount Fuji and lush green mountains in the background on a sunny day.
Smiling man in black t-shirt stands on scenic overlook with Mount Fuji visible in background.
Delicate red camellia flowers bloom among twisted bare branches in a Japanese garden.
Shibuya


When we had to fly out to go home, we returned to Tokyo the day before for one last evening. I wasn't feeling great the day we tried to go to the Shibuya area at the beginning of our trip when I had food poisoning, so it was lucky that our last night in Japan happened to be in the Shibuya area, and we could try again. I'll be honest; Shibuya and Takeshita were not my favorite areas in Tokyo, even after returning. These areas can be crowded, and I didn't think there was anything particularly special about them. A few highlights that are worth your time are checking out Shibuya Crossing when it's busy (because YOLO) and Mawashizushi conveyor belt sushi. We couldn't believe how affordable this particular sushi place was. In fact, we were worried they added up the plates wrong because a full belly-hurting meal for two of us with pretty high-quality sushi was around $35. The Kura conveyor belt sushi place in Pittsburgh would have probably at least doubled the price of what we ordered. We also enjoyed Meiji Jingu and Yoyogi Park. It was the beginning of Golden Week when we were leaving, so many Japanese people were off work, and we saw dozens of families eating their lunches and playing that day. We just sat there and enjoyed people-watching. When we were leaving, we stumbled upon a performance by a Japanese boy band! It was like we were watching the beginning careers of BTS. 


The last thing we did in Japan was go to Shibuya Sky. It is one of the most popular things to do in Tokyo, and you must plan well in advance for this. Even with our careful planning and punctuality when we could buy tickets, we had a hard time getting them. We could only snag an evening slot after the sun had gone down. These tickets sell out within minutes if you try to go during sunrise or anywhere close to sunset. It was a madhouse when we went there as well. Many people are put through the queues and the elevators to go up. You have to get a locker if you also have anything on you. Once you get to the outside, the crowds are thinned out, and it's not as bad, as long as you don't care about one of those viral Instagram photo nooks. Would I recommend this? I am honestly not sure. The 365 view of the city is cool, but the crowds are a bit overwhelming. We didn't go to Tokyo Skytree or Tokyo Tower, so we can't compare them. 

Hand holding a strawberry crepe cone on a busy Tokyo street with shops and blue sky in background.
Smiling man standing before a large wooden torii gate along a tree-lined path at Meiji Shrine Tokyo.
Visitors walking through a towering wooden torii gate on a sunlit tree-lined path at Meiji Shrine.
Tree-lined pathway at Meiji Shrine in Tokyo with visitors walking through lush green forest canopy.
Colorful stacked sake barrels with Japanese calligraphy displayed at Meiji Shrine in Tokyo.
Crowds of tourists gathering in the main courtyard of Meiji Shrine surrounded by large green trees.
Torii gate framed by tall green trees at Meiji Shrine in Tokyo under a bright blue sky.
View through ornate wooden temple gates revealing a torii gate and forest at Meiji Shrine.
Smiling man posing in front of ornate wooden gates with a torii gate visible behind him.
Smiling man sitting at a sushi restaurant counter with stacked plates and a glass of water.
Red torii gate standing in water at Hakone Shrine, surrounded by lush green forest on a cloudy day.

Hakone/Gora

The day we traveled to Hakone was a real adventure. We rode a train down to Hakone, then took a bus halfway up a mountain, stopped at a tiny tea house with a dirt floor and thatched roof, hiked to a lake, got on a boat to cross to the other side, then onto a gondola to take us up to the volcano to eat sulfur cooked eggs to extend our lives by 7 years, then rode the gondola to the other side of the mountain where we then made it to Gora and walked down to our ryokan.

Our big Splurge


Instead of heading to Kyoto after Tokyo, we spent one day and one night in one of the hot spring mountain towns near Mount Fuji. We went all in and decided to stay at a traditional Japanese ryokan, where they serve you dinner and breakfast. Each room had its own onsen as well as a large public one. I went to the public area, and there was no one there, so I had an indoor and outdoor hot springs pool all to myself that evening! Staying at a ryokan is all about the mind-blowing meals. Yes, it may have tested our food boundaries in some dishes. Still, I am so glad we got to experience this dining adventure. It was the fanciest meal I have ever had, hands down. The Ryokan was also the nicest place I have ever stayed. If you have the budget, do it for just one night like we did. 

Two travelers sitting together on a comfortable bus, smiling for a selfie during a sightseeing journey in Japan.
Scenic view of Japanese rice fields and mountains under cloudy skies seen from a train window.
Red bridge spanning a rocky river gorge surrounded by lush green trees in Hakone, Japan.
Rustic Japanese restaurant interior with tree stump stools, wooden beams, warm lighting, and guests dining in a cozy atmosphere.
Traditional Japanese amazake drinks served with mochi and small condiment dishes on tray.
Man in Steel City hoodie smiling beside a wooden Japanese trail sign in a forest path.
Woman in colorful hoodie posing beside a wooden Hakone Kaido trail sign in a forest.
Vintage pirate ship sailing on misty Lake Ashi with red torii gates visible on the shore.
People walking through a large red torii gate surrounded by tall cedar trees at a Japanese shrine.
Person walking along an ancient stone-paved path through a serene Japanese cedar forest.
Serene bamboo grove pathway in Arashiyama, Kyoto, lined with tall green bamboo stalks.

Kyoto

Kyoto was just as beautiful as they say it is. It reminded me a lot of Pittsburgh: there were rolling mountains of green trees everywhere and plenty of hills. The tourism board encourages its visitors to "find your own Kyoto," and it is easy to do if you are willing to get a little lost. We found that places in Kyoto were too busy and crowded in the popular areas and very peaceful in places that have yet to become popular but just as pretty. If you visit, getting up early for popular things and straying off the tourist corners is the best way to do Kyoto.

Fushimi Inari Taisha and Yasaka Jinja Nishiromon Gate


We finally got to hop on the Shinkansen after leaving Hakone! We had ridden bullet trains in Italy, so I was excited to ride the Japanese version. We purchased our ekiben (lunches you can take on the trains) and watched the quickly moving countryside into Kyoto. Of course, we hit the ground running. After checking into our hotel, we headed to the famous Fushimi tori gates. They were absolute chaos, so be open-minded when visiting this area. Larrin read some bad advice about going to the Fushimi tori gates in the late afternoon when things would be starting to die down. That was definitely not the case. The Tori gates were swarming with people. We also were told if you walked a bit up the mountain, there wouldn't be that many people. It was true, but not as much as I thought the crowds would thin out. This place is too busy no matter when you go anymore. Unless you visit in winter, expect large crowds during daylight hours. It's not hard to walk up to the top, so do that if you have time. You'll get a few solo photos if you can; don't expect this place to be deserted.


In the evening, we crossed the canals to a big shopping area, where we found the Nintendo store and Pokémon Center. They were both impressive stores. We also went off the beaten path and found a 6-seater restaurant that only serves one Japanese curry. The man running the shop can only make it two at a time, and it takes about 30 minutes from start to finish. One of our favorite meals of the entire trip was a simple Japanese golden chicken curry. Then we walked over to the Yasaka Jinja gate and park. Larrin thought we shouldn't go see it at night, but I told him to trust me on this one. It is a place you 100% want to visit after the sun is down. There weren't many people, and the lanterns and lights lit up made for the better experience. It was also very close to our hotel, so we saw it a few times, including during the day.

A sleek white Shinkansen bullet train speeds through a Japanese railway station platform with metal railings.
Scenic view of lush green Japanese mountains with red power transmission towers under cloudy skies.
Peaceful rural Japanese village with traditional houses, rice paddies, and misty mountain backdrop.
Visitors walking through iconic red torii gate entrance at Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, Japan.
Man in Steel City hoodie smiling among vibrant orange torii gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto.
Endless tunnel of orange torii gates with Japanese kanji inscriptions at Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto.
Woman in black jacket posing among iconic orange torii gates pathway at Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto.
Woman leaning against orange torii gate pillar along the scenic path at Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto.
Pink cherry blossoms and green leaves frame vibrant orange torii gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto.
Illuminated traditional Japanese temple gate glowing red against the dark night sky in Kyoto, Japan.
Kiyomizu, Ryōzen Kannon, and that super popular Pagoda (Hōkan-ji)


Our bodies still hadn't adjusted to Japan's time, so we had no problem getting up at the crack of dawn to go to Kiyomizu. This place is notorious for large crowds, as well, so if you can go early, you really should. It was a beautiful area! I can understand why this area is so popular.


There are many shrines and temples near Kiyomizu, and one of the temples that blew my mind was the Ryozen Kannon and Kodaiji temple area, with its mini bamboo forest, which not many people go to. Last, we made it over to the pagoda to take some photos and check out the shops. We found our first Ghibli store, and I went crazy!

Traditional red Japanese pagoda gate with stone lion guardian and Japanese flag at Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
Man standing on stone steps before the iconic red three-story pagoda at Kiyomizu-dera Temple Kyoto.
Woman in black hoodie smiling before the red pagoda and stone steps of Kiyomizu-dera Temple Kyoto.
Red Japanese pagoda temple with stone lanterns and stairs against overcast sky at Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto.
Close-up of vibrant red three-story pagoda with ornate eaves and green trees at Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
Panoramic view of Kyoto city with mountains, clouds, and a vintage street clock from a hillside temple.
Man in Steel City hoodie standing before red Japanese temple pagoda at Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto.
Young woman in black jacket posing before towering red three-story pagoda at Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto.
Ornate red Japanese temple gate framing a distant view of Kyoto city with guardian statues.
Smiling woman leaning on stone railing with lush green trees and Kyoto cityscape behind her.
Canals, Parks, and the middle of nowhere


One of the most important things Larrin wanted to do in Japan was a knife factory tour or knife-making class. We had booked months in advance, but the booking was canceled. That's when Larrin came to me with another class that would cost 3x as much and take up one of our precious days in Kyoto. I was skeptical and didn't really want to do it, but I knew it was important to him, and he doesn't ask for much. Yes, it was expensive, but luckily, Knife Steel Nerds (Larrin's side business) paid for it, and it was one of the most fun hands-on things we did in Japan. We also got to go way outside the city to a small town, spend over 6 hours at a master swordsmith shop, and pet his cute Shiba dog! Larrin will make content for that whole experience, so I don't want to steal his thunder with the video he will make for his YouTube channel. I came away very happy we had this experience.


Kyoto has beautiful parks, just like Tokyo, with many shrines and temples inside. We went to the Nanzen-ji area, which seemed few people go to, and it was absolutely stunning. There are so many parks, temples, and shrines that Kyoto has to offer that are just as pretty as the popular places. We loved this area!

Busy Shinkyogoku shopping arcade in Kyoto with colorful koi fish decorations hanging overhead.
Glazed meat skewer with toothpick served on a white rectangular plate on a wooden table.
Woman excitedly eating yakitori skewers at a casual Japanese restaurant with blue walls and wooden counter.
Scenic view of Kamo River flowing through Kyoto city under a clear blue sky.
Man in Spider-Man t-shirt leaning on a bridge railing with Kamo River in background.
Traditional Japanese temple gate framed by lush green trees at Nanzenji, Kyoto.
Visitors walking toward a traditional Japanese temple gate surrounded by colorful autumn foliage.
Perspective view of repeating brick arches forming a tunnel corridor at a historic structure.
Woman sitting against brick arch wall in a historic arched corridor, smiling at camera.
Smiling man in Spider-Man t-shirt standing before historic brick arched viaduct on gravel path.
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, Togetsukyō Bridge, and Kimono poles


After our knife-making class, we still had some fuel left in our tanks. We ONLY walked 5 miles that day, not the typical 10+ we had been while in Japan. We decided this was our last chance to do the popular bamboo forest, notorious for large crowds and a less-than-ideal experience. After the Fushimi Tori gates, we were worried it would be like that and potentially worse. After visiting the much more chill small bamboo forest near our hotel, we decided it would be okay if we were to skip the big, popular one. I don't know if we got lucky, but Arashiyama was not that bad when we pulled the trigger and went. There were people, but it was nothing like I had imagined. The forest is also magnificent and impressive. I'm glad we got both a small, intimate, and chill experience along with the grand forest with a larger crowd. The other areas around were pretty as well. This was a lovely area; I understand why it is so popular.

Colorful floral patterned cylindrical pillars line a stone pathway in Japanese garden.
Smiling woman in black hoodie walks between decorative floral cylindrical pillars outdoors.
Smiling man in Steel City t-shirt stands among colorful floral decorated pillars outdoors.
Woman in black jacket smiles beside vibrant floral patterned decorative columns outdoors.
Adorable bunny-shaped bread rolls displayed on wooden tray in bakery shop window.
Wide river flows past lush green forested mountains in scenic Japanese landscape.
Scenic view of traditional Japanese buildings along a riverbank with misty mountains in the background.
Traditional Japanese town with wooden bridge spanning a calm river, mountains visible in the hazy distance.
Couple posing and smiling near a wooden bridge over a river in a Japanese town.
Smiling man in a Steel City t-shirt standing in a lush green bamboo forest in Japan.
Mount Kurama and Kinkaku-ji Temple


Because we had such a good experience at Mount Takao, we decided we needed to do another mountain trail in Kyoto. This one was the best yet! This hike was called the Kurama to Kibune trail. NO ONE except for a few locals were on this trail the entire time we were there. It was probably my favorite place in all of Japan. Everything was so peaceful, and a shrine or temple around every corner walking up the mountain. The mountain area itself was stunning. It felt like we were in a National Park no one had heard about. I don't want anyone to know about this place. At the same time, I need everyone to learn about these areas that few have on their Japan itinerary. It wasn't a difficult trail, but it could be harsh on the knees going down.


After Mount Kurama, we saw Kinkaku-Ji (the golden temple). Wow, that place was slammed! So, I guess if you want to wake up early and take pictures of this place in the reflection of the pond, then I'd say go for it, but if you are going in the middle of the day when the reflection is gone, and 100's of people are there then I'd say skip it. I don't regret going only because we found a perfect small Szechuan beef ramen place for lunch. They have absolutely perfected this one dish they only serve in their shop. Another one of my favorite meals in Japan.

Large red Tengu demon mask statue at Kurama Temple entrance surrounded by lush green trees in Kyoto.
Smiling man in Steel City hoodie standing along red torii gate pathway at Japanese Shinto shrine.
Woman walking confidently along red torii gate lined stone stairway at a scenic Japanese Shinto shrine.
Ancient sacred Japanese cedar tree wrapped with shimenawa rope and shide paper at a Shinto shrine.
Woman standing on a traditional red Japanese bridge surrounded by lush green forest trees.
Person walking across a vibrant red arched Japanese bridge with stone walls and lanterns.
Woman in colorful hoodie standing on red Japanese bridge with shrine lantern in background.
Smiling man wearing Steel City hoodie standing in a sunlit Japanese forest.
Ancient stone pillars with Japanese kanji inscriptions in a serene forest setting.
Woman with backpack looking back over her shoulder on a misty Japanese shrine path.
A group of Nara deer resting under a tree with tourists in the background.

Nara

The thing I liked the most about our day trip to Nara was not necessarily the deer but laughing a ton with Larrin that day—especially when the deer kept attacking him with the crackers! I was happy to leave my camera behind in a locker all day and enjoy everything carefree.

Daytrip to Nara


Larrin read and watched a ton of Japanese content like I did while planning. One channel he found was a girl named Abby, who made travel content in Kyoto. He'd send me a few videos here and there from her channel. We both liked how she seemed chill and more authentic than many Youtubers making Japanese click-bait videos. At some point, Larrin mentioned that she and her husband were photographers and did photo tours. That's when I said, "WHAT? SHOW ME!" Larrin didn't realize at that moment that I'd be more interested in any travel ideas he had ever mentioned to me thus far. So, long story short, I told Larrin we would be booking a Nara photo tour from the girl on YouTube he had been watching. It was everything I hoped it would be. She met us in the morning at the train station, and we spent 4+ hours with her as she took us all around Nara, told us about the history of places, and took authentic documentary-style photos of us. The idea of Larrin and I being in photos together was something I knew we'd have very few of in other places. The knife-making class was Larrin's big splurge and the photography day with Abby was my big splurge. I'm entirely sold on hiring a photographer on vacation, especially one that does it like Abby and gives you an itinerary for the day. After we said our goodbyes, she also walked us to a fantastic fresh tuna restaurant. So, if you go to Kyoto or Nara, do yourself a huge favor and look up Abby from Piqtour to hire for part of your day. (90% of the photos shown below are taken by Abby, not me)

Man feeding multiple wild deer senbei crackers in a sunny outdoor park in Nara, Japan.
Young spotted fawn standing on dirt ground with green fence and trees in background.
Deer reaching through green fence to eat from person's hand in Nara, Japan.
Woman feeding and interacting with a group of wild deer among trees in Nara Park, Japan.
Couple feeding a herd of wild deer senbei crackers together in sunny Nara Park, Japan.
Man eating a snack while wild deer graze nearby under trees in Nara Park, Japan.
Couple sitting on a bench petting a gentle wild deer in scenic Nara Park, Japan.
Smiling woman in teal sweater feeding wild deer in Nara Park Japan on a sunny day.
Couple feeding deer in Nara Park Japan surrounded by friendly wild deer on a sunny day.
Couple sitting on bench petting a wild deer near historic building in Nara Japan.
Aerial panoramic view of Osaka city skyline under a cloudy sky.

Osaka

One last city to power through! Did we have a good time? Yes. But was it our favorite city? No, not really. Osaka was very glitzy and Las Vegas-esque. I feel like maybe we could have done a better job exploring different parts of Osaka. Places like Dotonburi were very overstimulating at times. It's a good thing we are native Nevadians and know how to navigate the Vegas-like scene.

Dotonburi and America-mura


What can I say? I don't want to be negative about Dotonburi because we did have a good time, but I want to be honest that this place is not for everyone. It's loud, crowded, and has tons of wild statues and lights. Whereas you can be walking in Tokyo station surrounded by hundreds of people and only hear the shuffling of people's shoes, Dotonburi has Pitbull on blast coming from one of the canal boats that seem to keep following you down the path. It's a place to check out, but go earlier than later because the most insane crowd we ever witnessed was in Dotonburi around 9pm.


America-Mura was a vibe. It's basically American hip-hop culture shoved in a few blocks. We got some waaaaay overpriced shirts that we thought were much cheaper, but oh well. It's a place you can spend an hour in and be done.

Smiling woman posing in front of iconic Glico running man sign in Dotonbori, Osaka.
Vibrant nighttime alley in Osaka lined with glowing globe lights and colorful restaurant signs.
The iconic Glico running man neon sign billboard in Dotonbori, Osaka, Japan.
A man posing with arms wide open in front of the famous Glico running man sign in Dotonbori, Osaka.
Aerial night view of Osaka city skyline with glowing streets and buildings.
Man in Steel City hoodie smiling in a Japanese shopping arcade in Osaka.
Busy street scene in Osaka, Japan with shops, signs, and pedestrians walking.
Woman in black jacket holding a drink standing on a vibrant Osaka street.
Giant red mechanical crab sign outside Kani Doraku restaurant in Osaka, Japan.
Dotonbori canal in Osaka lined with colorful billboards and crowds of tourists.
Namba Yasaka Jinja and Osaka Castle


The Namba Yasaka Jinja shrine was pretty cool, and it was in a pretty quiet neighborhood. PS: Always read the wishes people hang. You might just find a funny one!


Osaka Castle was loosely on our itinerary, and I'm glad we decided to go. It was my favorite nook in Osaka. The grounds were beautiful, and there was plenty of space. There were not a ton of people there the morning we went. We didn't go inside, but outside is plenty cool.

Couple smiling in selfie in front of giant lion-dog statue at Japanese shrine.
Wooden ema prayer plaques with multilingual wishes hanging at Japanese shrine.
Wooden ema prayer plaque with humorous English message at Japanese shrine.
Man in floral shirt standing before giant oni demon face entrance of Namba Yasaka Shrine.
Woman in white tee posing before massive lion god face gate at Namba Yasaka Shrine Osaka.
Man in floral shirt smiling in front of giant lion statue at Namba Yasaka Shrine in Osaka, Japan.
Massive stone oni demon face facade of Namba Yasaka Shrine in Osaka Japan.
Giant lion head building facade at Namba Yasaka Shrine in Osaka, Japan with traditional architecture.
Wide pathway leading through pine trees to Osaka Castle grounds under overcast sky in Japan.
Visitors walking through traditional wooden gate with Osaka Castle tower visible in background, Japan.

Wow if you've made it all the way, you must be a very good friend of mine or someone planning a trip to Japan and somehow stumbled upon this random photographer's blog!


For those interested in the wild map we used while planning this vacation, it is HERE. Maybe it can help some other crazy couple or family put their Golden Japan Route together. I'll leave you all with my own personal click-bait but very real tips for traveling to Japan:

FAQ

Don't be afraid of the train system!


They are always on time in Japan and if you just use Google Maps you will be FINE!

You Don't need to book restaurant reservations.


Unless you are dead set on eating at a Michelin Star fine dining establishment, your best places will be street food in the markets, and small restaurants.

Don't overlook the Train Stations.


The train stations have some of the coolest shops and best little restaurants. Some of our best restaurant experiences were in the train stations; from dipping noodles, onigiri, and grade A5 wagyu beef.


FAQ

Go to the mountains.


I cannot stress this enough!

Splurging on a Ryokan is about the price of staying at a disney resort for one night.


And if you think about it, many people do that and don't blink an eye!

Please Find your own Kyoto.


This place is beautiful everywhere! If I lived in this city as a photographer I wouldn't know what to do with myself.

FAQ

Let your body almost never get used to japanese time.


This is a controversial take, but we went to bed pretty early most nights and our American bodies wanted to be up around 5-6am in the morning a lot. That meant we could comfortably go places early!

Don't wear light colored clothes to Nara!


If you are feeding those deer, they will make you a MESS! Especially in the morning when they are very aggressive. They will bite at your shirt, and it can leave you with a stained shirt for the day. Don't wear anything that nice to Nara.

Buy yourself breakfast the night before.


A lot of shops do not open in Japan until 10-11am every day. We typically went to 7/11, FamilyMart, or Lawsons in the evening and got food for the mornings. You can also find good bakeries for food or the regular grocery store. There are just very few breakfast places.


A couple dances on a green lawn surrounded by vibrant autumn foliage in warm fall colors.

Jess Thomas Photography

Pittsburgh Based Photographer

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